round top screws prevented me from mounting the 280 rad flush.
added an acrylic plate to mount the res to so i could extend it further to the left. the CPU mounted at this point was a 3200g, which posted just fine.
I should've stopped here and at least made sure the system would post before bending my tubes for the next day and a half.
i'm still not sure if i should flip that bottom radiator to put all of the pipes on the far side. it might make it less risky to mount all of the pipes on one side, but making those bends sounds like a nightmare.
the shortest pipe in this build was the hardest. i quickly figured that i couldn't do 2 short 90 bends. so i curled the pipe to give myself more play, a little tension from a slightly off bend is more easily diffused with more pipe.
passed the leak test without problems but then i discovered the system wouldn't post.
Drained the loop, 3 hours of troubleshooting with 3 GPUs later and i found that the PCIE slots are faulty on the TUF board.
Fortunately there's Microcenter about 45 mins away. Not only did i score an Aorus X570, a Truck brought in a shipment of ASROCK 6800XTs while i was there. MicroCenter ftw.
I got the 5800x installed and working on the Aorus board, but obviously the 6800xt won't fit in the slot, so i had to wait for a riser cable to arrive.
draining the loop yet again.
New bends to leak test around the riser cable and the 6800XT which is much larger. also moved the drain port to a better location which should be the only permanent bend in the loop.
one of the reasons i love the S2 vision is the top down view through glass. here the RGB lights are off except the GPU which i haven't figured out how to control. the crossover tube is the UV acrylic and you can see it turning blue here. not quite as dramatic as i'd hoped.
After i figured out how to turn off the RGB on the gpu, this is how i game, the uv strip is set to breathe
Do the Dew
This is my first open-loop system so i was really nervous the first night after bending and fitting all of my pipes. i unplugged it when i went to bed in case it leaked. of course if its not going to leak during the leak test then its probably not going to leak when the pump is not pressurizing the system. This is replacing TheDarkness as my gaming rig. I was sad to leave the small form factor build behind for a full size tower but since this is my first attempt at hardline tubes and i was starting with Acrylic i figured i could use the leeway. also i've always loved the look of the S2 vision. The light show feels like a club while i'm video editing. The system was originally assembled with my vega 56 borrowed from TheDarkness, until I was able to snag a 6800xt at microcenter. after finally installing all of that hardware, I more than doubled my framerate (I game at 1440p) in Overload and Shadow of the Tomb Raider. I didn't bother testing with Doom as even the vega 56 was getting 140+ fps. Deep Rock Galactic seems to have a software cap of 244 FPS, not that its a taxing game.
Originally this build started with an Asus Tuf wifi Plus board. which led me to no end of trouble. it booted up with a 3200g without problem so i loaded up software and started putting components together. after updating the bios so it would take a ryzen 5000 series cpu i bent my first set of hard line tubes for a day and a half and powered it on. and nothing. after a few frantic hours of troubleshooting i found that the TUF board, which i had gotten as an openbox should've been in a junk box. it didn't detect a gpu in the pcie slot no matter what i did, verified with 3 known-good gpus. so i set it up for a return to newegg, and went down to microcenter where i got the aorus elite board instead. Really i should thank that TUF board because i was at microcenter that day when the truck pulled in with ASROCK 6800XTs. i got one for 800 which appears to be the new tariff-normal pricing. Microcenter is the best.
I really wanted a 280 rad and i didn't want to loose one of the 140 mm intake fans on front but of course the manual recommends it because the rad sticks up too far to just mount normally on the top 2 fan mounts. and i couldn't set it into the bottom 2 because i've already installed a 240 rad which i'll add to the loop later when i'm also watercooling my GPU. so i took out the round top screws that the fans came with and alternated some flat tops with the radiator's extended screws so i could mount the rad offset a little from the normal mounts. its using 2 screws in the bottom of the top fan and 2 in the bottom of the second fan.
The FLT 240 res doesn't mount to a 280 radiator, so i fabricated a mount using an acrylic plate with holes drilled into it. the radiator has 2 screws in the plate and 2 screws that span the plate and wall mount, and the plate has 2 more screws into the wall mount. seems solid enough so far. I can move it closer to the radiator by one mount but i didn't want to obstruct airflow any more than I have to.
The ASRock 6800XT is 2.5" longer than the vega 56 or the reference 6800XT. Good thing this case also has a vertical mount in place since there's no way the card will fit with my reservoir in its current location. So i got a riser cable to pass the card in front of the res and bent some new pipes. I'm still waiting for a waterblock to be announced by someone for this. if it was just a 2 slot cooler it'd probably be fine but the 2.5 slot brings the fans too close to the glass and the temps get higher than i'd like for overclocking. So for now i game with the glass panel off the PC. I've heard of people using an NZXT Kraken to watercool the 6800xt, and i've considered using a generic waterblock from amazon and cobbling together a custom solution. but i'll give it a few months for waterblocks before i attempt that.
other thoughts: I used acrylic tube because it was UV reactive and so is the primochill fluid that is in the pipes. i've got a UV LED strip installed next to the RGB strip that comes standard with the case and i have the lights set to pulse so all of the RGB turns off and only the UV is on to try and make the fluid pop. But the UV light doesn't seem bright enough to affect the tube and liquid much. that was a little disappointing. I installed polychrome sync alongside the RGB fusion app and can get darker darks for the UV now.
I struggled for a theme for a while. but with the bright yellow/green fluid it reminds me of mountain dew, so i'm working on a logo to put on the shroud.
the price tags on this list are way higher than what i actually spent. I totalled it out to ~2700, a lot of stuff was bought at christmas sale prices.