This was my first hardline build. I built it back in 2016 for a Quakecon case mod competition. I ended up winning first place forever securing my addiction.
Build LogAll the mods in the build I did myself. And at times during the build I just wanted to kick it to the curb. But I pushed through and have settled on a pretty good result. Had to redo a few mods a couple of times, doh! Cost of learning I guess. A lot of trial and error, blood, sweat, and definitely some tears. The custom RBG lighting alone took 3 or 4 nights of soldering and wire joining. Getting the pinouts on the aquaero matched up with the connectors and RGB strips was "fun".
Here is a short list of the mods I did to this PC:
- PSU Cover
- Mobo mid plate Front
- Mobo mid plate Back
- Rear panel cover
- Modified top of case to fit 25mm thick fans
- Custom RGB lighting: Rear Left, top center, front left and right, rear compartment left top and right, Behind front panel, and above I/O shield
- Custom Mount for Aquaero Controller, HDD, and Farbwerk RGB controller
- Custom paint - internal
- Bulk head pass-throughs
- Custom hardline tubing
- Custom drainage system
- Fill port x2
- Custom sleeving: Main power cables, fans, lights, usb, front I/O
- Hand tapped screw holes for misc mods
Hope you all enjoy!
Mod Talk:Top Case Fan Mods
The goal of this mod was to conceal the fans. When playing around with component orientation, specifically the front radiator, I just loved the look of just the radiator with the fans concealed by the front panel. So naturally I wanted to match this aesthetic with the top radiator.
So I measured the gap between the removable radiator mount tray and the top of the frame. Turns out it was 26mm. Bingo! Had my solution. I had to deal with the following issues:
1. The metal cut outs in both the frame and radiator trays had extruded edges. I believe these edges help the structural integrity of each piece, but not by much. With them there, the fans would not fit. So these had to go. I first used a Dremel to side cut as far down on the extruded openings as I could. Then I used a grinder and file to get them flush. This didn't effect the radiator tray at all in terms of structure. The top of the frame was a little less, meaning the metal pieces spanning across the top of the frame were a little more flimsy, but still did their job well. I definitely wouldn't recommend cutting them off completely. (which would be easier) Pictured Here
2. The radiator tray is designed to be removable. With the fans in the voided space, you will not be able to remove the tray. In fact, in order to assemble the radiator and fans, you have to remove the screws on the front and back of the top section of the frame that holds the rails in place. But this is a good thing because you can sandwich the radiator tray in between the fans and radiator, bolt it together, then place the top of the frame over the config, then place the rails back on top of their locations and screw them back on from the sides. Pictured Here
3. Needed to trim some extra metal to allow for easier installation of wires and water cooling lines. Pictured Here
After all that is assembled, it was just a matter of fitting the entire top assembly back on top of the rest of the frame and screwing it down in the corners. All this is possible because Phanteks rocks when it comes to case design, using screws instead of rivets.
Want to know more about another mod? Specify in the comments and I'll add it here.