Updated with new GPU. Extended loop to GPU water block. Frosted tubing to better diffuse light from the RGB fittings.
Updated with new GPU. Extended loop to GPU water block. Frosted tubing to better diffuse light from the RGB fittings.
Project: Unicorn Vomit
Intel - i9 9900k Processor
ASUS - ROG Strix Z390-F Motherboard
G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 32GB 4 x 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz Desktop Memory Kit
AMD - Radeon RX6700XT Graphics
Thermaltake - PS-TPG-0850FPCGUS-R 850W Power Supply
Samsung - 960 EVO NVME m.2 SSD 500GB
Western Digital - WD Black Desktop 7200RPM SATA Internal HDD 4TB
Lian Li - O11 Dynamic Razer Edition Case
ASUS - PCE-AX58BT AX3000 Dual Band WiFi Adapter
NZXT - AC-IUSBH-M1 - 5 Port Internal USB 2.0 Hub
Lian Li - Strimer ARGB 24 Pin Extension Cable
Lian Li - Strimer ARGB 2x8 Pin Extension Cable
ASUS - ROG Addressable RGB LED Lighting Strip
Fittings:
Alphacool - 17254 - Eiszapfen extension G1/4 Outer Thread to G1/4 Inner Thread - 10mm Deep Black (x2)
EKWB - EK-Plug G1/4" Plug (x3)
EKWB - EK-Quantum Torque Micro Plug - Nickel (x2)
EKWB - EK-AF Ball Valve G1/4 10mm (Black)
Barrow - TBX2D-02 - 14mm 360° Rotary Male To Male Extender
Barrow - TCWD-V1 - 10K Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting
Bykski - B-FMpa-V3-X - Frosted Water Flow Meter
Thermaltake - CL-W214-CU00BL-B - Pacific Compression C-Pro (x6)
Thermaltake - CL-W185-CU00BL-A - Pacific RGB Plus TT Premium Edition G1/4 PETG Tube 16mm OD 12mm ID Fitting (x12)
Fluid:
EKWB - EK-CryoFuel (Clear)
Color(s): Black
RGB Lighting? Yes
Theme: none
Cooling: Custom Liquid Cooling
Size: ATX
Type: General Build
Build Updates
Build notes
RGB it all. No matter the consequences.
This is my first attempt at custom water cooling and there were lessons learned. Oh yes, there were lessons learned. I read and re-read the PrimoChill water cooling instructions. I watched and re-watched oh so many YouTube tube bending videos. Nothing authoritative is complete. And neither is this...
1st lesson: Do not underestimate your ignorance or overestimate your own talent. Tube bending has a steep learning curve. Single bends can be trimmed to flush and square nicely, but double bends must be 100% accurate because...
2nd lesson: Imperfect bends cannot be re-made into perfect bends (mostly). Clear PETG tubing will show every last flaw. E-ve-ry-thing. PETG will mar on accidental contact with almost anything. It seems to never be cool enough to not be scored. PETG tubing cannot (generally) be reheated and un-bent/re-bent. Reheating can cause small bubbles to appear in best case and huge gross, warty bubbles in worst case scenarios. Any inadvertent torque applied will cause odd twist patterns to appear in the tubing.
3rd lesson: Double check your bends for square. Your bending jigs are almost certainly not 100% correct. My 90 degree bending jig, in truth, turned out to be a 85-ish degree jig. Enough to cause my single bend tubes to not be square and my double bend tubes to be binned. Slight, I say again, SLIGHT heat can be applied to relax the bend and bring into proper square. I used a drafting t-square attached to a board to jig my 90 degree bends. Apply slight heat, just enough to the bend to cause it to relax a bit, place GENTLY against the t-square and fix with a few spritzes of water from a spray bottle.
4th lesson: Prevent leaks always.
a) Your tubes must contact o-rings squarely with no gaps.
b) Everything plastic is covered in release oils and everything metal is covered in machining oil/coolant. O-rings are covered in mold release oil and will slip under pressure. The inside of tubes will be covered in oil from the extrusion process and if clear of that will be covered in soap or oil from the silicon insert used during bending. Clean this out or the o-rings will slip.
c) Disassemble everything and wash it inside and out. Wash everything with dish soap and scrub with a toothbrush. Be mindful of disassembly order, take pictures if necessary.
d) Do not pinch o-rings on re-assembly. Do not lose o-rings. If it started with a seal, it must end with the same. It is a bad thing if you end up with extra o-rings after reassembly where previously there were none.
e) Clean, dry, dry fit, pressure test, fill with prep solution, test again, drain again, disassemble to completely empty of prep solution, reassemble, pressure test again then finally... fill with coolant.
5th lesson: Double bends are the devil. Try only if your confidence is absolute or you neglected to buy 90 degree fittings. I fell into the latter rather than the former.
Update 10/2023-02/2024: So the GPU died... some time ago.
Update 10/2023-02/2024: So the GPU died... some time ago. It was bound to happen.
First delay: there was the GPU supply meltdown during COVID and finally not having the financial horsepower to go big, I went home... and opted for a previous generation RX6700XT reference board. Plugged it in and P:UV lives again!
Decided to rebuild the cooling loop during my first ever maintenance cycle - ever. Yeah, I know you're supposed to flush every 6 months, but because the GPU was dead, P:UV sat idle... for a year and a half. Found some galvanic corrosion in a fitting on the distro from the CPU. Enough to cause me to disassemble everything. There was a film of some sort on everything the water touched. The coating on the Thermaltake fittings is delicate and scratches and flakes easily. Scraping the corrosion off of it was an effort.
Cleaning the distro plate turned into a project of its own. First, identified some crust-ees hanging around the o-rings, rather gunk-i-fied threads where the crusty fitting once lived, and cloudy film on the interior water passages. Disassembling the distro requires removing the 4 screws holding the water pump in place (3 of whom stripped and didn't survive. Located replacement screws for the water pump at Titan Rig... in sets of 3.) and 35 screws holding the two plates together (8 of whom are hidden behind the RGB cover/logo/beauty plate) The plate is held in with adhesive, requiring some heat and gentle prying. Then finally cleaning the o-rings and a decent scrub with a toothbrush on the acrylic.
Rebuilt the hard line tubing loop. This time with frosted PMMA acrylic tubing for better light diffusion from the RGB fittings. PMMA tubing is a different creature than PETG. It takes a bit more heat to become flexible and has a slightly longer working window. That doesn't mean it's easier. I did notice it would stand a reheat a bit easier to correct or reform bends than PETG. But too much working or heat caused the same bubble issues. The frosted tubes also hid some tool marring and other marks, but would melt and turn clear if over heated or I had held too close to the heat gun. I found I could sand the surface to hide cosmetic issues caused by over heating the tubes.
Added another set of 6 TT RGB 16mm OD fittings.
Had a coolant blow out during non-powered testing caused by overstressing a fitting. PMMA is brittle. My measurements were slightly off and I added a bit more torque to the tube. Fortunately, the bend was on the lowest side of the loop so no coolant flowed down anything other than through the then-non running fans, the lower radiator and onto the workbench.
The Thermaltake fan controllers have ALWAYS been a problem. Not appearing in the TT control panel, and not running at speed. I will be replacing them with... something? in the coming months. Generally, I've found the Thermaltake products to be decent enough when it comes to the fittings, but a huge headache when it comes to fans and controller hardware.