Really happy with this now.
There were problems (not enough brackets, couldn't get the micro 90 fittings for the radiator, one of o-rings won't hold even 0.1 bar, ran out of sleeving) but everything I have now I'm really happy with. So I am finally done.

(Ooh, Raptor lake refresh i5s are out)

It’s ongoing….

My son asked if I could quieten his machine down, and I was short a couple of fittings to replace the Stock intel fan with my spare parts turned into a self built AIO. So obviously I could do that with minimal effort... hmmm


To be fair, I took the opportunity to mount the FLT 80 inside the frame, rather than between the frame, and that meant the GPU to "90 into back of Pump" didn't line up with the GPU any more (it was always a 1-2mm out), which meant changing the FE block pump terminals. Also I couldn't fit the PSU between two full height 90s so needed the micro 90 to make it work, so new route required. I was surprised how much ZMT actually wants to straighten out. There is quite a bit of pressure on the fittings going into my acrylic blocks even on that 45degree bend. Its fine once tightened in, but very scary if you slip on the first turn or so.


I did consider moving the GPU forwards so I can align its back with the back of the pump and have a nice pair of nickel micro 90s and a straight piece of chrome linking them, but that means the GPU block won't be supported by the screws linking the MB and the riser. Also you either lose the centralisation of the Pump and GPU in the frame, or you have that chrome tube at a few degrees off vertical.

I've realised that I'm actually pulling hot water from the CPU to GPU to Pump. The plan was to go from the Rad into the pump (yes water is the same temperature all the way around), but its a pain to drain, so next build might need a drain valve near the Rad somewhere...?

The aRGB for the GPU and Pump seemed to have stopped working, but I was going to replace the splitter with an actual hub. The motherboard is on the list to be replaced if I have fried that, and if I have killed the GPU and pump leds, I can always replace those. Let's hope not.

Finally, the FLT 80 was back in stock, so it was finally time to say goodbye to the noisy, irritating, annoying, combo CPU cooler/Pump/Res.

On my original layout, has the radiator to the side and I want to move it to the rear instead. For reference this is the v1 & v2 layout;


...and this is the new layout, but viewed from the opposite side because I forgot to take enough photos that's the way its going to sit.


One issue with this is that the FLT80 and convection pump heatsink extend out from the case. I had been really torn by a D5 instead of DDC, but I am really glad I didn't go that route. It makes lying the case on it's front difficult, but you can always just raise it with something under.


And you want to do this to avoid using a third hand on the bars. Just pre-assemble and place on.



Oh and pump upgrade really worked well. It is so quiet now. Even under load.


Next change has to be GPU power cables. Currently the twin 30cm 8pin EPS plugged into the Nvidia 12pin converter loop down to the MB, back to the top, and back down to the GPU because its only 15cm from the PSU to the GPU. At least that side faces the wall. Maybe I can forget its there... (Nope)

I'm mid rebuild, and currently its pressure testing...

The instructions for the Convection pump cover look good, but are actually terrible. It really did want you to hold down the centre label and push it through. Fortunately you just have to not move the O-ring and you are fine.

I'm just testing that the O-ring isn't leaking, and have no idea how the RGB got connected... honest.

Take a moment to soak in this image

The most important part here is that tiny red line near the bottom of the temps, the next most is the darker fan control/speed line. It's a silent build now... at least while I'm working (and that has just gone nuts, so no time for any proper performance testing)

It cost me £7 for a water temperature sensor and suddenly all the noise is gone. Above 600rpm, there was a gentle sound of fans which stayed fairly constant up to 1,000rpm.

It's almost calmed the pump down at least when it's just used during the day, apart from when it starts up in manual at 4500rpm. Almost good enough for me to forgive it?
No. It's still being replaced.... soon. I have the new CPU block. I just need the FLT pump/res....

Oh and maybe some new Quantum Micro 90s...and...

Plan A
With the pump block at the front and the GPU block at the back, the rad sits best on the left hand side. Even so this has to be positioned so the radiator is between the frame and the fans are outside. If you put it on the right both rad and fans would have to be "outside" the frame.



Plan B
With a lower height block on the CPU, the Rad can be positioned in front of that, and further back probably at least with the Rad inside the volume of the frame. This would mean that you won't see the MB and block, so any old cheap one would do (I have no intention of running an overclocked i9). That won't happen until I need to replace the CPU/MB. Unless...

Plan C
Thanks to a sale at EK, I now have a Supremacy block on its way. This is a nice compromise. Cheap, supports 1152, but for £0.01 you get the 1700 mountings too, and it actually looks better than the other cheap ones I was looking at, and it was half the price. Now just need that pump/res.....

... and maybe a DDC heat sink
(I'm terrible)

So it's on my desk right now, just to my right, and I'm typing away, and the temps are great, so it must be done? .... Right?

Well, no. I'm not happy.

The pump

• The BarrowCH pump/block wakes up in manual mode, not PWM. It decides that Full power is the way to go, so runs at 4,000+ rpm. Win11 seems to decide to wake up at random, but not go back to sleep. I'm currently Shutting down every night to avoid burning it out.
  
• Once switched to PWM Mode, the block runs at 3,200rpm with a zero PWM signal. This is almost quiet, but not really.
  
• Switching the block to manual mode again, I can hold minus until it uses only 2w, and it sits at 2,000rpm. Miss releasing as you get to 2w and the pump switches to PWM mode and then speeds back up to 3,000rpm. Try again.
  
• A few minutes later, I can switch the block to PWM mode and it runs at 1,800rpm. Silently working all day now. It will even speed up with temp, then drop again.
  

The orientation

• Because I need to interact with the pump everyday, it's on the front.
  
• I really like looking at the GPU block... which is on the back.
  
• The radiator has to go on the left facing the wall (which is fine), there is less space on the right due to the Riser cable. It sticks out, because it is up against the motherboard IO shield.
  
• The PSU can now only fit vertically, facing forwards as the new radiator has an extended collar which pushes the fittings out an extra mm. I was hoping to run the 24pin cable out as a flat snake backwards, down, forwards, down and into the MB.
  

Wiring

• I still hate the bundle of wires on display in the middle.
  
• This is the easiest of the fixes, but I did this on my Shift build, then re-did it, and ended up with kinks in the wires. This time it has to be last task.

Proposed Solution

• Replace the pump/block for a cheap/simple CPU block with minimal clearance required for fittings.
  
• Move the radiator in front of the MB, there should be enough room to mount this deeper into the case than currently is.
  
• Install the FLT 80 above the GPU block.
  
• Install the PSU vertically from the right hand side, above the MB, cables will turn down and cascade to ports as required, but now in the sandwich between radiator and GPU/FLT.
  
• Turn case around.
  
  

But 1151 => 1700. So new CPU and MB, but next gen is reported as another new socket... so, looks like I'm back needing more patience.

I'm not very good at being a grown-up.

Looks like this is the obligatory post title

Parts added

EKWB 3080FE Special Edition Waterblock
Nocuta NF-A14 Chromax
EKWB S280

Took a whole day, of course.


The machine is utterly silent (once the pump is dialled down) even at full load. Still running heat soaks to get the bubbles out.


Not convinced I'm finished here yet, the routing is ok, but....tempted by hard tubing instead of soft. Still want to switch to a FLT pump, but not doing that without a new CPU motherboard.

Need an RGB splitter cable as only one motherboard header.

You know that wonderful feeling when that parcel finally arrives? And the sense of disappointment when its not quite?



I finally ordered the EK Special edition waterblock for my 3080 founders. It was supposed to be a back order, but 48hrs later there it was in my hands. I decided to take a proper look and take it apart, and then ... well one of the cover plate screws moved a couple of millimeters and then got tighter and tighter, and stopped.

I could feel the hex socket starting to slip, so contacted EK's support. One set of instructions later, and I'm trying all the ways to get it out, eventually the dremel is in use to turn a hex into a straight slot, and I'm being so very careful to only cut in a few mm, but with each attempt I feel the slot still not gripping. I have to go just a tad deeper, until...


EK support have been great and are sending a replacement plate and screw, but I would have so much preferred just to open the box and not had the hassle.

In theory it's simple. Take the components out of a Phanteks Shift, and put them into a DA6. There is less to get in the way. Must be easy.

Oh but it's upside down, and there is very little to hang it on. It took all weekend.

Issues to solve

• The non-custom Molex cable won't fit between GPU riser and Motherboard. Need to make one of those.
  
  
• The non-custom 8 pin GPU power cables + the NVidia 12pin adpater is way too long. I have to loop it up on top of the PSU then down to the GPU.
  
  
• The Phanteks Shift riser cable wouldn't fit on the riser cable stand, so I had to have it floating. The GPU is definitely securely mounted without it though, you can go through two centre holes of the DA6 bracket that line up with holes in your GPUs IO cover. - Solved with the Streacom RZ4-21B riser.
  
  

But... it's cool. I mean it looks good and also I mean that there is enough ambient cooling that my radiator fan is off most of the day. It's silent while I'm working

After reading both the TechPowerUp review and 80ishplus build log, possibly the most surprising part of the DA6 is that there is a really simple way to get the bars on.

Start by assembling half a bar, and ensure the screw part will be tightening the short end.
If you look closely you can see that the radius of the bar is not actually big enough to go around the tube perfectly.
So if squeeze the bar tightly into the the tube it expands the short end of the bar out slightly
With your other hand, tighten the screw to pull it back in, then remove hands,

Now thread the other bar in
Repeat the squeeze technique on the other end

This also works with radiators, just build the bars on the radiator so they are just tight enough not to fall off, turn your bar curves so they are 90 degrees from where you want them, turn your case so gravity helps, and tuck one end of bars in. Rotate the ends so they hook around the tubes, then slide the rods so the radiator sits in position. Slide and rotate the other end. This worked really well for a 120mm rad, but for the 280mm radiator I had to build one bar at a time as it was too big to fit.